Seven coves you can only reach by boat

The west coast of Paxos is a wall of white limestone, and that is exactly why its coves stay empty. There is no road, only the sea.

Yiannis leaves the harbour at nine, before the wind picks up. The first stop is usually the blue cave at Ipapanti, where the water turns an unlikely colour when the sun is behind you.

Bring shoes for the pebbles, a mask, and less than you think. Lunch is on the boat: bread, tomatoes, cheese and whatever he caught on the way back.